It's something of a shame, because to the east of Lao Cai city lies the other half of the province. The ground soars upwards again, to the peaks of the Chay River Massif, where the town of Bac Ha is to be found, 66km by road, at 700m above sea level.
Bac Ha is a 'little Sapa', and while it's much less developed for
tourism, it's in an ideal location for off-the-beaten-track treks to
visit colourful weekly markets. The
Can Cau and Bac Ha markets,
in particular, feature local scenes that have been going on every week
for generations, where cattle, horses, goats and dogs are bought and
sold, as well as many traditional goods like saddles and plowshares,
along with elaborate textiles, handbags and other trinkets made by the
local tribespeople, the Flower Hmong. Their intricately woven daily
costume is one of the main drawing points in itself. This is an
incredibly beautiful part of Vietnam.
It's a very
convenient place to explore the surrounds, and basing
yourself here rather than Sapa will knock off about three hours of
travel time each way on a daytrip to most of the local weekly markets.
And, at less than half the altitude of Sapa,
the weather here is likely to be more clement in winter months, with an
average year-round temperature of 19 degrees Celsius (4 degrees, on
average, warmer).
But don't expect any pizzas or breathtaking mountain views. Bac Ha is still, first and foremost,
a local market town,
and the tourist industry is only being added on, wherever it fits in.
This is of course part of the attraction — although expect to still be
bothered by H'mong hawkers.
The town gets
a weekly assault of tourists on Saturday at about noon,
as daytrippers return from visiting the Can Cau market. Many stay the
night to visit the Bac Ha market in town Sunday morning, and then it's
back to Sapa.
There are some
good accommodation options and it is possible to avoid the tourist orientated restaurants and find local food options. There are also some less-travelled trekking and homestay trips
available in the area, with visits to a variety of ethnic villages,
particularly the Flower H'mong. About half the tribes in the area are
H'mong, with the rest being Tay, Dzao, Tu Zi, Nung, Phula, La Chi and Lo
Lo, among others.
There's very little to do in Bac Ha itself if you're settling in for the
night. Market days are party days for the H'mong men, so you might be
able to find a cluster of thoroughly pickled blokes to join in with, and
let them rail on at you in an incomprehensible patois of Vietnamese,
Chinese and Flower H'mong.
If that's not your scene, bring a good book.
There's no banking for foreigners in Bac Ha. There is a post office and internet
is available at some of the hotels and opposite the Son Mai Hotel. Bac
Ha is not a good place to handle travel logistics, so make sure you have
all your ducks in a row before arriving.
There are precious few departures from the
main bus station,
which is mostly useful for getting back to Lao Cai. If you're headed
almost anywhere else, you'll need to stand along the right road and flag
down the right bus. No tickets are sold at the bus station — just buy
when you board.
Street names are elusive in Bac Ha, but just south of the square is the
road that leads to Pho Lu, (Route 153 on most maps). You'll find the
post office on that road, just south of the intersection with the road
towards the market.